Introduction

The leather and footwear industry is one of the most significant sectors in Bangladesh’s economy, second only to the ready-made garment (RMG) industry in terms of export earnings. With a long-standing history of leather processing, Bangladesh has leveraged its availability of raw hides, low-cost labor, and strategic location to establish itself as a competitive global player in leather goods and footwear manufacturing. However, the processes involved in leather production—particularly tanning—are resource-intensive and environmentally damaging, creating profound implications for health, engineering design, environmental sustainability, and international compliance.

This essay examines how leather production influences the field of footwear engineering in Bangladesh. It explores the interplay between material quality, environmental and regulatory challenges, health and safety issues, technological innovation, and the broader implications for the future of sustainable manufacturing in the country.

Leather Production in Bangladesh: An Overview

Bangladesh produces approximately 350 million square feet of leather annually and exports over 400 million pairs of shoes each year. Traditionally centered in Hazaribagh, the leather tanning industry has faced long-standing criticism for environmental pollution and worker exploitation. In 2017, the government relocated tanneries to the Savar Tannery Industrial Estate (TIE) to mitigate the impact on the Buriganga River and surrounding neighborhoods. However, challenges persist with waste management, water treatment, and industrial compliance.

The leather production process typically involves several stages: curing, soaking, liming, deliming, bating, pickling, tanning, dyeing, and finishing. Each of these steps uses various chemicals, including chromium, sulfides, and acids, many of which pose significant health and environmental risks if not handled or treated properly. These factors directly influence the engineering of footwear, particularly in material consistency, product durability, and process optimization.

Material Properties and Engineering Design

Footwear engineering relies heavily on the quality and consistency of leather as a base material. Leather produced in Bangladesh often suffers from inconsistencies due to rawhide spoilage, inefficient tanning methods, and inadequate chemical treatment. Seasonal overloading—especially during Eid-ul-Azha when a large portion of hides are collected—leads to rushed processing and deterioration in leather quality.

Such inconsistencies affect tensile strength, elasticity, and dye retention—parameters crucial in the design and durability of shoes. Engineers must compensate for these material weaknesses by adjusting footwear designs, applying synthetic overlays, or utilizing reinforcement techniques in critical areas. In some cases, engineering solutions involve blending leather with synthetic materials to ensure product consistency while maintaining aesthetic appeal.

Furthermore, engineering teams are compelled to adapt shoe molds and components to accommodate the variable thickness and flexibility of locally tanned leather. This affects not only the aesthetics and ergonomics of the final product but also production efficiency and waste management.

Environmental Challenges and Sustainable Engineering

The environmental impact of leather production in Bangladesh is severe. Tanning one ton of rawhide can generate between 20 and 80 cubic meters of wastewater laden with chromium, high levels of biochemical oxygen demand (BOD), sulfides, and other toxic chemicals. Despite the relocation of tanneries to Savar, the central effluent treatment plant (CETP) has struggled to meet operational standards, resulting in the continued discharge of untreated or partially treated waste into nearby rivers, including the Dhaleshwari.

For footwear engineers, these environmental challenges translate into increasing pressure to develop sustainable production systems. This includes adopting water-saving technologies, chrome-free tanning methods, and closed-loop chemical recycling systems. These practices are essential for obtaining international certifications such as the Leather Working Group (LWG) standard, which is increasingly demanded by global buyers and retailers.

Moreover, engineers are involved in designing manufacturing processes that reduce solid waste, optimize raw material use, and ensure compliance with both local and international environmental standards. Sustainability has become an intrinsic part of engineering education and practice in the footwear sector, aligning with global trends toward eco-friendly and circular production models.

Health, Safety, and Ethical Considerations

The health risks associated with leather production are significant. Workers in tanneries are frequently exposed to hazardous chemicals without proper protective gear. Long-term exposure can lead to chronic skin diseases, respiratory issues, and even cancer due to carcinogenic substances such as hexavalent chromium. Studies have shown that more than 60% of tannery workers in Bangladesh suffer from work-related illnesses, with many having shortened life expectancies.

Footwear engineers must now account for health and safety considerations in both tannery and footwear factories. This involves implementing safer chemical handling protocols, integrating ventilation systems, automating high-risk processes, and designing ergonomic workstations to reduce physical strain. Health-conscious engineering also extends to product design, with increased demand for orthopedic and supportive footwear that caters to specific medical or occupational needs.

Additionally, the widespread use of informal labor in leather processing—where more than 90% of workers are temporary or underpaid—raises ethical questions about labor rights and working conditions. Ethical engineering now involves designing systems that not only enhance productivity but also protect workers and promote dignified employment.

Regulatory Landscape and Compliance Pressures

The global footwear market is increasingly demanding compliance with environmental, social, and governance (ESG) standards. Certification from organizations like the Leather Working Group (LWG) or ISO 14001 has become a prerequisite for access to premium markets in Europe, North America, and East Asia. However, Bangladesh has lagged behind in this area, with only a small fraction of its tanneries and footwear factories meeting the required standards.

Engineers play a pivotal role in bridging this compliance gap. They are tasked with reengineering production processes to meet regulatory benchmarks, including wastewater treatment, chemical safety, and carbon footprint reduction. Factories that achieve certification can command higher prices and secure long-term contracts with global brands—thus, footwear engineers are increasingly seen as strategic assets within export-oriented companies.

The current push by the government and industry associations to modernize production—through initiatives like the proposed Leather Development Board and expansion of the Savar TIE—is a step toward creating an ecosystem where regulatory compliance is embedded in every stage of production and engineering.

Education, Research, and Skills Development

To meet the evolving demands of the footwear industry, Bangladesh has invested in specialized educational institutions such as the Institute of Leather Engineering and Technology (ILET) at the University of Dhaka. These institutions offer programs in leather engineering, footwear design, and chemical technology, aiming to produce skilled professionals capable of leading the next generation of sustainable manufacturing.

Research in alternative tanning methods, biodegradable adhesives, and synthetic leather substitutes is gaining momentum. Footwear engineers are increasingly expected to work at the intersection of material science, mechanical design, and environmental engineering. This multidisciplinary approach enables the development of innovative products that meet both functional and ethical standards.

Moreover, collaboration between academia and industry is crucial. Joint research projects, internships, and technology transfer initiatives are essential for translating scientific knowledge into practical engineering solutions that can be scaled across factories nationwide.

Technological Advancements and the Future of Footwear Engineering

The future of footwear engineering in Bangladesh is closely tied to technological advancement. Automation, robotics, and data analytics are being gradually integrated into manufacturing processes. Smart manufacturing tools—such as CNC leather cutting machines, robotic stitching arms, and real-time quality monitoring systems—are helping improve efficiency and product consistency.

Engineers are also experimenting with new materials such as synthetic polymers, recycled rubber, and vegetable-tanned leather, which are not only more sustainable but also adaptable to various climate and wear conditions. These innovations cater to the growing demand for non-leather footwear, which has seen significant growth in recent years.

Blockchain technology and QR-based traceability systems are being explored to document the source, treatment, and journey of each leather product. This level of transparency is particularly important for consumers concerned about ethical sourcing and environmental impact.

Conclusion

Leather production in Bangladesh has a profound and multifaceted impact on footwear engineering. While the country’s abundant raw materials and low labor costs provide a strong foundation, the environmental, health, and regulatory challenges associated with traditional leather processing demand a shift toward sustainable and ethical practices.

Footwear engineers are at the forefront of this transformation. They must design products and processes that balance performance, cost, and environmental responsibility. This includes embracing new materials, upgrading technologies, ensuring worker safety, and achieving international certifications. Education and research institutions play a key role in equipping engineers with the skills and knowledge needed to drive this change.

As Bangladesh aims to transition from a low-cost manufacturing hub to a center for value-added, sustainable footwear production, the role of leather in engineering will evolve. The integration of environmental sustainability, health and safety, and advanced engineering design will define the next chapter of the country’s footwear industry.

In conclusion, the intersection of leather production and footwear engineering presents both challenges and opportunities. With the right investments in technology, policy, and human capital, Bangladesh can lead the way in creating a globally competitive and ethically responsible footwear industry.